Joystick And Pedals For Mac
The Logitech should work fine. I think the given system compatibility only refers to the configuration software. Most half-way serious flight sims I know should be able to address its buttons and axes without additional software.
Also has some very good flightsticks. Especially the Hotas X also should be configurable mostly without additional drivers. I personally use a which has far more knobs, buttons, switches and other moveable thingies than any Mac flight sim can handle. In case I really need it, I then use ControllerMate to make things work. If you want to stay on the budget side, my recommendation goes to the Thrustmaster T.16000M. Extremely accurate, and yet costs practically nothing.
- The combination of the Flight Sim Yoke and Pro Pedals are expensive, but make the ultimate, though costly, realistic station for flight-simulation games such as FLY 2K.
- The Emulator Pedals are lightweight at a 197 grams per pedal. Each pedal features a fully CNC machined platform out of 6061 Aluminium with a 4140 Cro-mo Steel (9/16″) axle and a High load DU bushing and cartridge bearing.
List price is like $50, but it can regularly be had on sale for $20-25 (I got mine for $20 from MicroCenter in March this year). I would make a very heavy recommendation against the CH Fighterstick. I listened to the hardcore CH fans as far as what I should buy, and I had a complete CH setup (CH Fighterstick, Pro Throttle, Pro Pedals). They were NOT worth what you pay for them. Fighterstick had zero resistance and tons of play, and was not nearly as accurate as the significantly cheaper Thrustmaster T.16000M, which I'm now using as my cheap stick for games that were programmed by apes and won't work properly with a real HOTAS (Battlefield 3 and 4, for instance).
I was similarly disappointed in the Pro Throttle and Pro Pedals. I sold off all my CH gear last fall and moved to the TM HOTAS Warthog + Saitek Combat Pedals. Infinitely better. Then I picked up the T.16000M for use as an all-in-one joystick to replace my ancient Logitech Wireless Freedom 2.4 joystick, and was extremely impressed by the fact that even though it's made from pretty cheap plastic (it's $50), the magnetic sensors make it feel nearly as accurate as the stick from the HOTAS Warthog. VERY satisfied with it. Both Thrustmaster products are Mac-compatible. T.Flight stick is not new, it's been around for quite some time.
Some pedals present themselves as being joystick / game controller devices and Transcribe! Should be able to use these on Windows, Mac and Linux. Of course, these pedals aren't really intended for games, it's just that they use the same interface.
I had the T.Flight HOTAS X (same stick with a matching throttle) for the PS3 several years ago for use with the first HAWX on PS3. It was okay, but nothing to write home about, IMO. I ended up eBaying it after a couple months.
It'll do as your basic sub-$50 joystick. My main gripe was when I connected it to my Mac to use with Beyond the Red Line, the throttle accuracy left a lot to be desired.
But the stick was okay, just not amazing. I haven't used the stick-only version with the integrated mini-throttle, but I assume aside from that difference it should be the same. I still say the T.16000M is a much better choice though. It feels like a $50 stick, but it performs like a $200 one. Seriously, using that and its big brother the HOTAS Warthog has made me a believer in digital magnetic sensors over analog potentiometers. For comparison, each axis on a really high-end stick with pots has about 250 states. Low-end sticks, maybe around 60 states.
The T.16000M has 16000 states for each axis (hence the name). And that's even with 'cheap' sensors (expensive ones have 65000 states).
Especially if you're flying a helicopter, the difference in input smoothness, accuracy, and controllability is like night and day. It also never needs calibration, and unlike potentiometers won't wear out after a couple years of heavy use.
The only problem is price, as most Hall effect sticks are expensive. The T.16000M was an attempt to bring that tech to a budget stick, and IMO did an excellent job.
Its only downside is the central location of the throttle, but the stick is marketed as being ambidextrous, so that's probably why. Slower and faster? I'm sorry to hear such good news? Late 2012 27 inch iMac, Core i7 Quad 3.4GHz, 16GB RAM, Nvidia GeForce GTX 680MX 2GB, 3TB HDD - Mavericks Late 2009 27 inch iMac, Core i5 2.6GHz, 12GB RAM, ATI Radeon 4850HD 512MB, 1TB HDD - Mavericks Mac Mini, PowerPC G4 1.4Ghz, 1GB RAM, Radeon 9200 32MB, 256GB HDD - Leopard Dell Inspiron 1200 Notebook: 1.2GHz Celeron, 1.2GB RAM, Intel GMA915, 75GB HDD - Ubuntu Generic Black Tower PC, Dual Core 64-bit 2.4GHz, 4GB RAM, GeForce 9600 GT 512MB - Windows 7.
I'm a Mac user: since 1.5xxx version i've started to have problems with my Saitek pedals and with my Logitech extreme 3d joystick WT don't recognize yaw axis. I was thinking that something was broken, hardware problem, so i've also send my joystick to a shop to check it and it's all fine; i've PARTIALLY solved using correction slider, but planes turn really bad and sometimes still is turning by himself, like when you have lateral wind (but happens only to me) How can i try to solve the problem? I've downloaded twice the launcher/game and reinstalled from zero.
Please help me! Edited October 3, 2016 by n3m0ita.
Joystick And Rudder Pedals
Thanks for the answer: Warthunder don't recognize my yaw movements: if i try to use the yaw axis on my joystick and set the Multiplier to 1 (or more) the rudder locks to the right and i can't correct neither if i use the Correction slider if i try to use my pedals, nothing happens. Sorry to say it does sound like War Thunder Mac has a bug so maybe ask for advise from tech mod, maybe file a bug report. I had same bug months ago when I was on OS X - it was with a 'virtual joystick' box for head tracking that jammed the yaw indicator to one side. I finally installed Windows 7 on OS X partition because War Thunder for Windows gets quicker better fixes and offers more features like graphics adjustments and saved joystick profiles. It might sound sickening to most Mac users but for me, totally worth it. I just thought of Windows as my war thunder app. If i try to use the yaw axis on my joystick and set the Multiplier to 1 (or more) the rudder locks to the right and i can't correct nemo, In this thread's category, I don't see anyone else reporting yaw problem with Mac & Logitech so, maybe there's a setting you missed?
It's very common for everything to look right but a single slider is in wrong position so; 1. Please post a screenshot of your yaw axis? Then, as a test, please try assigning your joystick roll movement to yaw axis? PS - I PMd relliK asked him to visit this thread. Edited October 12, 2016 by gruber33.
I think that there is anothe user with similar problem: 1. Here's my yaw axis 2. Tried to assign another axis for yaw, don't work i've also tried to unplug my joystick and use ONLY pedals to control yaw: autodetect axis works only with 1 and 2 axis (pressing, like accelerator in cars), not with 'real' axis (like in planes, you've to push a pedal forward) it's a bit strange, isn't? IMPORTANT: also using keyboard to control rudder, it don't works!
Edited October 16, 2016 by n3m0ita (grammar errors). It's strange. If i start from scratch with joystick unplugged and i try to configure ONLY yaw (using 'configure controls' and not using the wizard) the plane don't move rudder. Many thanks for the suggesition about yaw settings, i'll try tonight (and planning to buy a new saitek stick) You're welcome. You're right it's strange that's why you should report it! Personally I think you're nuts to buy a new stick unless it's for other games. I'm only guessing about yaw buttons settings.
I'd check or post on RB air forum about using buttons for yaw. Lotta those players do rudder that way. Edited October 24, 2016 by gruber33.